Is their closure a sign that fine dining matters less than it once did?

Club Gascon opened in 1998 opposite Smithfield Market, and was credited with bringing Michelin starred dining to a younger audience when the guide was still very French. For example, St John nearby only received its star in 2009. Now their star has been removed as they prepare to close.

I asked the staff what is next. They retain the lease and may open a traditional French brasserie in its place. The owners seem wise to what the market wants. They run a pétanque and cocktail spot for City bankers, and Le Bar next door is staying open with quirkier dishes like Marmite royale and soldiers, and plates for £15 instead of £40.

What I ate:

• “Faux gras” £26
• Guinea fowl ballotine £39
• Roquefort and beetroot tart £16

Service of 13.5% included above

The faux gras was a walnut paste with a saffron glaze sealed into a budding flower arrangement, vegan except for the butter biscuits. The chef owner is famously obsessed with foie gras, one reviewer said it appeared in seven dishes. This feels like another nod to fashion. At first it works surprisingly well. A rich lingering flavour dominated by saffron and walnut, with echoes of liver. But the novelty fades quickly. Very inventive and worth trying, though it would work better as an amuse bouche than a full dish.

The ballotine was an exquisite main, perfectly cooked, overtly French, with flavour contrasts grounded in game meat. The black lemon sauce lifts and surprises, and the foie gras tart, yes they did sneak it in, was absolutely delicious.

My favourite dish however was the dessert. Normally I am not the biggest dessert eater, but France knows how to do it. Sweet, tart and rich with dark fruit flavours and a touch of umami. Sharpness and salt from the cheese, served two ways, as ice cream and crumbled over. It is probably my favourite dessert I have eaten in the past year, if small for £16.

I would have ordered a non alcoholic cocktail, but the approach is very French. A bible of wine or Coca Cola. When you walk in it immediately feels like a stuffy restaurant, which is a shame because once the staff warmed up, they were charming.