The boozer faced a suprise closure over the summer, the brewery Badger Ales, who had run the place since 1999, were told they were to be replaced by a food-led offer. Now the people behind the Waterman’s Arms in Barnes (fantastic food pub), and Joe Grossmann, the founder of Patty & Bun, have moved in here.

London’s critics disagree on it. Grace Dent at the Guardian said “Old boozers are reclaimed, reloved and restored… Let’s buy some Mr Sheen, give that old hovel a polish and start serving duck à l’orange and flourless chocolate tart.” But Jimi Famurewa formerly of the Standard, now at the Broadsheet, thinks it’s so good he compares it to Quality Wines, Gymkhana, and Tollington’s.

I personally loved it, though agree with Grace that the service is not great.

On the food:

“Beef-fat onion rings… fat and puffy but sensibly portioned. A little childish, perhaps, but grown-up again when paired with the whipped smoked cod’s roe. Inside the crisp batter, the onion melts into soft sweetness. Dunking through the tarry, saline roe gives you a thump of fishy depth that balances out the lightly saccharine. It’s simple but big flavour and slightly ridiculous.”

“The merguez frites baguette is a glorious mess, and that’s the point. The sausage is lamb-y with a cumin warmth, wrapped in an uneven, crackly baguette. Chips are lightly paprika’d, onions are sharp with vinegar, all held together by mayo. The whole thing doesn’t shy from grease, it’s a confident sparring partner that requires assured consumption in return.”

“Last up was picanha – Brazilian rump steak, more of a bullish roar than gentle moo. It’s blood-warm and chewy in a primal way, with a thick seam of fat along its edge. Scattered on top are punchy beef lardons, crisped into nutty, caramelised nuggets. Beef on beef, fat on fat.”

In all it was about £60 for one no drinks, with service charge.

(Not comped, not invited. I pay for everything. I’m Richard Crampton-Platt a former restaurateur now ‘The Greedy Dick’ writing a free Substack.)